Garage Doors: a complete UK guide

 Garage Door Types and How They Work

1. Roller Garage Doors

2. Sectional Garage Doors 

3. Up-and-Over Garage Doors 

4. Side-Hinged Garage Doors

5. Round-the-Corner (RTC) Garage Doors

Cost Comparison (Typical UK Prices)

Manual vs Electric Operation

• Manual Doors: Require lifting by hand (up-and-over, hinged) or using a crank/chain (roller, some sectionals). Manual is fine for light occasional use. It’s cheaper up-front but less convenient.
• Electric Doors: Have a fitted motor and remote control. Electric garage door is ideal if you use the garage frequently, have limited mobility, or want hands-free use in rain/narrow streets. Remote-control motors use rolling codes for security. Modern openers include safety edges or sensors to auto-reverse if something is in the way, and have manual release for power cuts. Demand is high for electric operation on rollers and sectionals; most up-and-over doors can also be fitted with a motor kit.

British Standards and UKCA Marking

Every new garage door in the UK must meet strict safety and performance rules. The main standard is BS EN 13241, which sets limits for impact strength, safe operating forces and durability.

• UKCA mark: all powered doors must display the UKCA marking, supported by a Declaration of Performance or Conformity. This is your proof the door has been built and tested to the right standard.

• Safety edges and sensors: electric doors must stop and reverse if they hit an obstacle. The HSE powered doors guide explains why regular testing is essential.

• Manual override: every electric garage door must include a manual release so you can still open it during a power cut.

Choose a supplier who can prove compliance and provide spares. All TWF doors are electric and UKCA marked, with compliant safety edges, manual release, warranty and full documentation included. For replacements, see our garage door accessories shop.

Planning permission and legal notes

• Replacing like for like or changing the style or colour of a garage door usually does not need planning permission. This sits under permitted development.
• Exceptions: listed buildings, conservation areas, or where conditions on a previous permission restrict alterations. If in doubt, check with the Local Planning Authority. The official Planning Portal explains the rules clearly.

Choosing the Right Door: Space & Use-case

Think about how you’ll use the garage day to day. Are you mainly parking, storing tools, or using it as a workshop?

• Quick foot access: side-hinged doors or roller doors with a pedestrian mode are handy.

• Large vehicles / short driveways: sectional and roller doors open vertically, so no risk of hitting tall cars.

• Limited headroom: roller or round-the-corner doors need very little ceiling space.

• Plenty of headroom: almost any type works, though sectionals make best use of the space.

• Multiple access points: sectionals with a pedestrian door or side-hinged doors save opening the full width.

• Local climate (Suffolk & Norfolk): exposed to wind, rain and salt spray. Rollers with wind-locks or insulated sectionals give better weather protection. Choose corrosion-resistant materials for coastal homes and rinse doors regularly to clear salt.
• Aesthetics: match the door to your property. Timber-look side-hinged doors suit cottages, sleek sectionals fit modern builds, and up-and-over canopy doors suit classic semis. Most types can be customised in colours and woodgrain finishes.

Types of Fitting

• Face Fit (Frame Fit): The door’s frame or guides mount on the face of the wall around the opening. This preserves the full internal width of the garage, as the frame sits outside the reveal. It’s the common method for roller doors and some sectionals. It is also easier if the brick reveals are uneven or low.
• Reveal Fit (Built-In): The door frame fits inside the opening between the wall reveals. The door sits flush with the wall surfaces. This can look neater on some properties, but reduces opening width by the frame thickness. It requires that both side reveals are even and at least ~50 mm thick for fixing.

DIY vs Professional Installation

DIY kit:

• Why choose it: perfect if you like hands-on projects, want to save on labour costs, and prefer to work to your own schedule. You’ll also understand exactly how your door works, making future adjustments simpler.

• Things to keep in mind: careful measuring and safe fixing are important, and you’ll be responsible for wiring and testing the safety edge.

Our DIY roller garage door kit is designed to make the process straightforward. Each kit includes a cut-to-size curtain, barrel and motor, guides, controls and a clear user manual. We deliver nationwide from our Norfolk base, and offer friendly phone support if you need advice along the way.

Professional fitting:

• Why choose it: ideal if you’d rather leave everything to the experts. We take care of the survey, measuring, compliance checks, full installation, testing and tidy handover. You get a seamless service and a neat, fully-documented warranty.

• Things to keep in mind: the cost is higher than supply-only, but you get complete peace of mind and zero hassle.

For customers in Suffolk and Norfolk, we offer full garage door installation, with dedicated services for roller garage door installation and sectional garage door installation.

Measuring and Fit: Get It Right

• Width and Height: Measure the internal width and height of the opening at three points each (left, centre, right) and use the smallest of each. Walls can be out of square, so using the smallest avoids a door being too big. Record in millimetres.
• Headroom: Measure from the top of the opening to the ceiling or lowest obstruction. Roller and sectional doors require sufficient headroom for the drum or panels. Round-the-corner doors need much less height.
• Side Room: Measure from each side of the opening to any obstruction (window, meter box, electrical conduit, etc.). Most roller/sectional tracks or frames need a clear side-lintel space (typically 50–100 mm). Side-hinged doors need space for hinges/frames on both sides.
• Floor Level: Check if the floor is perfectly level or slopes. If there is a drop, note this; you may need a larger threshold plate or adjustable bottom seal to close gaps.
• Lintel/Frame Condition: Inspect the top beam (lintel) above the door. If it is weak or crumbling, arrange repairs before attaching tracks or frames.

Maintenance Tips to Keep Your Garage Door Running Smoothly

A little regular care will keep your door quiet, safe and reliable for years:

• Clean the surface: wipe slats or panels with mild soapy water to remove dirt and grime.

• Keep tracks clear: check guides and tracks for debris that could cause sticking or noise.

• Lubricate moving parts: apply a light oil or spray to hinges, rollers and springs as recommended in your manual.

• Test safety features: once a month, test the safety edge and photocells to make sure the door stops and reverses correctly.

• Check the remotes: replace remote-control batteries before they run flat.

• Inspect fixings: after storms or high winds, check brackets and screws are still tight.

• Coastal care: near the sea, rinse off salt deposits and let the door dry fully before closing.

• Listen for changes: if you hear grinding or straining, stop using the door and get the fault checked. Running a failing motor will only make things worse.

Key Takeaways and Next Steps

• Measure Carefully: Always measure your garage opening accurately (three points for width/height) and note headroom and sideclearances. Double- and triple-check the dimensions before ordering.
• Pick the Best Type: Use our comparison above and questions to choose the best door for your space and use. For tight driveways or tall vehicles, consider roller or sectional. For budget builds or traditional style, up-and-over or hinged may suffice.
• Consider Insulation: If your garage is attached to living space or you use it often, an insulated door (sectional or insulated roller) will keep comfort and reduce bills.
• Professional Fitting vs DIY: Decide whether to use a local installer (we serve Suffolk and Norfolk with installation services) or tackle a DIY kit (available nationwide). A professional fitting will usually give the cleanest result and maintain warranties. For those handy with tools, a DIY roller garage door kit can be a cost-effective route.
• Check Compliance: Ensure any new door meets BS EN 13241 standards. It should have the CE/UKCA mark and come with safety features as required.
• Legal Rules: In most cases you won’t need planning permission to replace a garage door, but do verify if special conditions apply.
• Maintenance: Plan to inspect and clean the door regularly. Treat coastal doors to fresh-water rinses and check weather seals, lubricate moving parts, and test safety edges as part of an annual routine.

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FAQs